How Does Hair Removal Work?

By Jai Newman

Electrolysis was the only form of long term or permanent hair removal available before laser and IPL devices entered the market. Electrolysis is still performed today even though it is painful to the patient and invasive to the skin, allowing for the possibility of infection. During the electrolysis procedure, a fine needle is inserted into the hair follicle, delivering a galvanic current to destruct the stem cells in the follicle. Unfortunately, this painstaking process is performed one hair follicle at a time. Maintenance procedures are often needed for many years after the initial treatment.

In comparison, with laser and pulsed light technology, hundreds of hair follicles are treated simultaneously and vary upon the spot size (the size of the tip of the device delivering energy). These laser hair removal treatments are non-invasive and take only minutes to perform instead of the painful hours with electrolysis.

Melanin

A patient's skin type and hair color can be the most important consideration prior to hair removal treatment. Laser hair removal is based on selective photothermolysis (using light and heat for destruction of a hair follicle) with melanin being the target chromophore (chemical grouping that produces color). The difference between the absorption of laser or light energy by melanin in the hair follicle and melanin in the epidermis determines the amount of energy that can be safely used without harming the skin.

Light-skinned patients with dark hair are proven to be the ideal patients for laser hair removal On the contrary, a patient with very dark skin and white/grey hair, would have little if any results. Since melanin in the hair shaft and follicle are the target source for laser and IPL hair removal procedures, it is important for patients during their initial consultation not to tweeze, wax or use any depilatory device prior to the procedure. The patient can, however, shave the area to be treated (which preserves the chromophore in the follicle), or can use hair removal creams. Hair which is above the skin surface can burn during a laser or light treatment.

Treatment Day

Most devices technically operate the same way when performing a hair removal procedure. The parameters on the device (joules, milliseconds, pulse, etc.) should be set according to the skin analysis and history performed on the patient. It is important to for patients not to wear dark clothing near the area to be treated as the pigment in the clothing could potentially be absorbed by the laser or light and can result in a burn. The patient should be instructed to refrain from using any body washes, lotions, cosmetics, or any skin medications the day of treatment. Some patients may prefer to have a topical anesthetic applied prior to the procedure. If any residue of the anesthetic remains, it should be wiped clean from the skin. A spot test, or patch test, should be performed on the intended treatment area. Several treatments are required at monthly intervals for an optimal outcome and a yearly maintenance procedure is recommended. - 29882

About the Author:

Sign Up for our Free Newsletter

Enter email address here